The 8 Best Italian Beef Sandwiches in Chicago

From gravy-soaked classics to delightful new spins, Chicago’s iconic Italian beef is alive and well. Here’s where to find the very best versions, according to a local.
Illustration of italian beef sandwich on a stamp with moving stars
Illustration by Bon Appetit 

Who serves the most delicious gumbo in New Orleans? The top burrito in San Francisco? Welcome to Taste of the Town, where we call on a local expert to share the best versions of their city's most iconic food.

Chicago is a meat town. Hot dogs, burgers, and Italian beef are what we’re known for. But which dish becomes your go-to largely depends on how you grew up. My family was all about Italian beef.

I was raised by an Italian stepfather, but it’s my Mexican father who I most associate with Italian beef, one of Chicago’s most iconic dishes. As a recent immigrant to Chicago in 1989, he made his living in the world of hospitality—including working as a catering delivery driver for the Italian beef shop Buona Beef. For him, a combo sandwich (an Italian sausage buried under a mound of thinly sliced beef) is synonymous with Chicago. One bite and he’s transported to his younger days, hustling towards his vision of a better future.

The Italian working class created the dish out of scarcity in the early 1900s, as a way to tenderize cheap meat and soften stale bread. A classic Italian beef is composed of slivers of slow-cooked, lean-cut beef on gravy-soaked French bread. The meat, usually a chuck roast or top sirloin, simmers in a rich bath of spices. Depending on the restaurant, that could mean oregano, garlic, parsley, basil, black pepper, or all of the above. After a few hours of tenderizing, the beef comes out of the liquid and cools until sliceable. Once shaved into paper-thin strips, it returns to its hot sea of spices to simmer until it’s time to be served. Cooks pile that beef high on sturdy rolls (the best shops source their bread from Turano Baking Co.) and top it all off with giardiniera, a medley of pickled vegetables like celery, carrots, cauliflower, chili peppers, and olives.

The sign of a good Italian beef is that it’s not greasy. If you want to get fancy, you might refer to the thin juice that’s used to cook and rehydrate Italian beef as jus, but in the Midwest, you’re more likely to hear it called gravy. The gravy is spooned back over the finished sandwich to ensure nothing goes to waste—and in the process, it softens the crusty French bread. This bread-soaking technique is known as a wet sandwich. Can’t get enough of the juice? Order it “dipped,” which is exactly what it sounds like: a sandwich dunked in beef broth. The crust might be crunchy, but the insides should be fluffy and thick. The recommended eating protocol is to consume your sandwich on-site, as soon after ordering as possible. If that’s not an option, get your sandwich dry with juice on the side to give you a fighting chance of making it to your destination with a semi-intact meal.

Italian beef may have humble roots, but everywhere from old school institutions to Michelin-starred spots celebrate this dish. Chefs at restaurants like the James Beard Award-winning Filipino restaurant Kasama are putting their own twist on the sandwich. It even starred in the first season of hit TV show The Bear, giving Italian beef a deserved boost in popularity. No matter their background, pretty much everyone in Chicago has a version of this sandwich that they love.

Here, in chronological order from oldest to most recently opened, are the eight best places in Chicago to smash an Italian beef.


Multiple locations

Al’s Beef opened in 1938 and is one of the oldest Italian beef spots in the city. This is one place where you can get nearly any variation of the sandwich: dry, dry with gravy on the side, wet, dipped and topped with your choice of hot giardiniera—you name it. What sets Al’s apart is an 85-year-old sandwich recipe and a beef-cooking technique that takes nearly 30 hours.

Al’s slow-cooks its beef for nearly four hours in a vat of spices and its own juices. The beef then chills for 24 hours to ensure that it holds together when sliced. A day later, the meat returns to the cooking broth, where it absorbs the liquid for a succulent sandwich that gushes with meaty, savory flavor in every bite.

Al Ferreri opened the Little Italy spot alongside Frances and Chris Pacelli Sr., his sister and brother-in-law, and it’s still run by descendants of the family, who claim they are the original inventors of the sandwich. Back then, it was known as Al’s Bar B-Q and acted as a front for their bookie business which has long since closed. Now, Al’s has six locations, but die-hards will tell you the Taylor Street location can’t be beat. I’d have to agree.

Order: The jumbo beef at the Taylor Street location, where city mythology says the Italian beef began. It should be “wet” and topped off with giardiniera, which is made on-site and goes heavy on the celery (no olives in sight). Skip the cheese, which can feel too heavy, and add sweet peppers to cut through the saltiness of the meat and juice. Go all-in with a very generous order of salty fries.

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Scatchell's

4700 W Cermak Rd, Cicero, IL

The menu at this suburban spot has remained relatively unchanged since it opened in 1953. That’s something owner Barry Reggi, who took over in 1985 alongside Frank Levato, takes a lot of pride in. Reggi has used the same powdered beef seasoning blend of oregano, salt, black pepper and garlic since the 1950s—he believes that’s why customers keep coming back. Here, the consistency and construct of the sandwich stand the test of time.

The beef at Scatchell’s cooks for five hours and chills for 24 more before it’s sliced and shaved down to veil-thin ribbons. The shavings are carefully layered (so as to not become globs of meat) on a thick French roll. No sandwich is complete here without sweet and hot peppers to balance out the intense flavors. The giardiniera at Scatchell’s features a hefty dose of crunchy celery and skips the carrots, cauliflower, and olives found at other stands. Cheddar cheese is available, but beware, it can overpower the delightful combo of slow-cooked roast beef and spicy pickled celery.

Located just outside of Chicago’s city limits in Cicero, a suburb close enough to the city that you can ride the CTA Pink Line, Scatchell’s made its on-screen debut during the driving montage of Wayne’s World set to Bohemian Rhapsody—a film showcasing all things quintessentially Chicago. The flashing lights and bright yellow signage are the restaurant’s calling card. The space has been remodeled since then to offer dining options beyond counter service, including a number of tables. Still, eat at the counter to spare yourself a stained shirt.

Order: I’m a traditionalist, so I go with the classic beef (“wet,” no cheese, and an even blend of hot and sweet peppers). If you’re a slow eater, skip the dipped sammie or you’ll end up with soggy bread and juices running down your fingers and arms. Save room for the housemade Italian ice, available in lemon, strawberry, pineapple, blueberry, and piña colada.

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Johnnie's Beef

7500 W North Ave, Elmwood Park, IL

While many Italian beef stands have been renovated and expanded over the years to accommodate their growing popularity, Johnnie’s Beef has retained its original structure since opening in 1961. The modest one-story building has just enough room to house its kitchen and a long line of devoted customers. The space has big windows overlooking a busy boulevard, and evokes an old-school retro vibe that’s hard to find elsewhere. Diners enter from one end with cash in hand (no credit cards here), a rehearsed order on their lips, and exit through the other with their bundle of food. This process keeps the long line steadily moving; expect to be in and out in less than five minutes. There’s no indoor seating, but a number of patio tables are available outside for those elusive warm-but-not-scorching days.

The secret to the deliciousness of the Italian beef at Johnnie’s is, well, a secret. Only a handful of people know the spice recipes used for cooking the meat (and they’re all family members of Johnnie, the original owner and founder). What I can tell you is that the fat is trimmed off the beef before the meat goes back in the cooking juices, resulting in a lean sammie that practically dissolves in your mouth. The beef has a buttery, rich flavor but never ends up greasy. The giardiniera here is heavy on the peppers so expect a kick, and the gravy is a bit spicier than most. And don’t bother asking for cheese—they don’t believe in it.

Order: The Italian beef, submerged in gravy and topped with sweet peppers (the “juicy beef, sweet.”). This is the most popular sandwich at Johnnie’s. The Turano bread roll is fully submerged into gravy and topped off with sweet peppers cooked fresh daily. Order a side of fries, which is big enough to share between two people, and top things off with a lemon Italian ice—the only flavor available.


Portillo's

Multiple locations

There’s a reason Portillo’s has grown from one tiny stand in the suburbs of Chicago to more than 75 locations across 10 states. The restaurant delivers on flavor every single time. At Portillo’s, you can top your beef with a hefty, unorthodox portion of melted mozzarella or cheddar cheese. My mom’s order growing up was dry, with sweet peppers and a mild giardiniera on the side. It’s stuck in my mind because a gravy-less Italian beef is the antithesis of what this sandwich is all about. But it’s a testament to how good the meat at Portillo’s is on its own. The gravy is a fragrant mix of oregano, black pepper, garlic and cayenne. The beef soaks up all that flavor while it cooks.

Though some shops stick to classics, Portillo’s takes a more playful approach that caters to a wide variety of diners. There are nine different takes on the sandwich available here, including the option to swap out the French bread for a croissant and smother it with cheese (the Beef-n-Cheddar Croissant) or going breadless and getting your Italian beef as a bowl. Whatever you do, don’t skip the crinkle-cut fries, preferably consumed alongside a cup of melted cheddar cheese.

Order: Cast aside your judgment, and get the Beef-n-Cheddar Croissant. Croissants are not made to hold a heavy amount of wet beef and oozy cheese, yet somehow, this works. The buttery flakes from the croissant meld with the cheddar cheese, dissolving to reveal equally tender beef. The saltiness of the meat cuts through the cheese and boosts its flavor. Order your gravy on the side because the croissant will not hold up. Leave enough room (if that’s even possible at this point) for a chocolate cake milkshake, with bits of Portillo’s famous chocolate cake crumbled into the too-thick-for-a-straw blend.

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Buona Beef

Multiple locations

Joe and Peggy Buonavolanto opened their first restaurant location in 1981 in Berwyn, the suburban city close to the start of historic Route 66. The success of that original Buona Beef led to a chain of restaurants with more than 25 locations throughout the city and surrounding suburbs. Carl Buonavolanto, Joe’s brother, was the owner and creator of Mr. Beef, the inspiration and set for The Bear. This family knows what it’s doing.

Buona Beef cooks its meat differently from the rest of the places on this list. The process begins by covering a lean cut of sirloin in a blend of pepper, oregano, and other spices, then placing it on a piping hot skillet and pan-searing to produce a dark and crisp layer of caramelization. The beef submerges into a bath of broth and goes into the oven overnight to cook low and slow. Once the beef is sliced and ready to stack into sandwiches, a cook will quickly dunk it into the gravy to reheat and get juicy.

The “combo” sandwich (my favorite here), features a char-broiled Italian sausage buried under a mound of meat and enveloped in Turano’s sturdy yet chewy bread. The result is a juicy, salty crunch in every bite. The giardiniera at Buona features a blend of carrots, peppers, cauliflower, and celery. The shop eliminated the mild giardiniera due to low demand, so be careful if you’re sensitive to heat. Buona Beef is one of the rare stands that also offer meatless alternatives and gluten-free bread.

My dad worked for Buona Beef as a catering driver during the 90s, where he developed his love for Italian beef. He now lives in Austin, and recently came to visit me. We made the drive to Berwyn for his first beef in 10 years. He nervously awaited his combo, unsure if it would taste how he remembered it. One bite and he practically squealed with delight. His fears were unfounded; it was just as good as he remembered it.

Order: The combo, “dipped,” with giardiniera and sweet peppers. If you like your sandwich with heat, ask for a side of the hot oil used to marinate the giardiniera. At Buona, “dipped” means both ends of the sandwich are soaked in juice. A “baptized” sammie is fully submerged in the gravy.

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Odge's

730 N Damen Ave, Chicago

Odge’s tends to fly under the radar despite its impressive menu and high quality ingredients. This is likely because it’s only open for lunch, but that’s part of the allure—you have to be intentional about visiting, otherwise you’ll miss the moment. Edwin Steven "Odge" Boksa Sr. opened the shop in 1972, and it’s now run by his son Edwin “Eddie” Jr. You’ll know you’ve arrived thanks to the loud red, yellow and green exterior promoting “free fries with all sandwiches.” Inside, diners eat from vintage yellow-top linoleum tables, surrounded by nostalgic memorabilia like signs for Route 66, black and white photos from a time when the Chicago Stadium still stood, and a collection of vintage He-Man and Superman lunch boxes.

Like most great Italian beefs, this sandwich isn’t winning any awards for good looks. Take one bite though, and you’ll fall in love. The crunchy bread, savory gravy, delicate meat, and spicy peppers all work together to create a balanced sandwich packed with flavor. The top layers are a little drier than the lower levels of the sandwich, with the gravy pooling at the bottom of the French roll (Turano, of course). I appreciate this style more than a gravy-drenched beef because I’m a slow eater. Being able to alternate between bites of sturdier bread at the top and gravy-saturated ones toward the bottom keeps the whole thing from becoming too soggy. Hot peppers come on the side, so dump them on your sandwich or control the heat by adding them as you go.

Odge’s slow-cooks its meat for hours until tender but not falling apart. After more than 50 years in business, Odge’s has mastered its braising and slicing technique, rendering layers of meat that are sturdy, but still soft enough to pull apart with your fingers.

The restaurant doesn’t have a viral social media presence. It’s a neighborhood spot that’s thrived for 50 years by serving its community with gourmet flair. The fries here are cooked in beef fat, Maldon salt is the preferred seasoning, the chuck roast used in burgers is dry-aged for 25 days, and the restaurant’s chili features ingredients grown in Odge’s own garden. Eddie grew up around food and planned to attend culinary school after high school. However, when his father died in 2014, he decided to carry on his legacy. The humble restaurant doesn’t bill itself as a dining destination. But with every bite of this tender Italian beef, you’ll understand why Odge’s stands above the competition.

Order: The Italian beef, mild, “dipped,” and stuffed with hot peppers. Order a cheese cup on the side. The beef fat used to cook the fries provides a rich-but-not-greasy flavor that isn’t easily found elsewhere in the city. The staff is friendly and won’t judge you for using the cheese to top off your sandwich—which you should.


Budacki’s Drive In

4739 N Damen Ave, Chicago

Crisp, a casual Korean fried chicken shop, is one of Chicago’s most popular restaurants and usually has a line out the door. But you don’t have to wait at Crisp. Budacki’s, the sister restaurant, is about five miles away in the Ravenswood neighborhood, and features the same bulgogi and crispy wings served from a shoe box-sized stand. The restaurant also dishes out hot dogs, burgers, and yes, Italian beef. You can eat inside, counter-style or opt for a table on the patio.

Come hungry or with a group that’s up for some extra sides with their sandwiches. The Italian beef at Budacki’s is a classic take on the staple. The restaurant slow-roasts sirloin in a mild, thin gravy of pulverized spices (the shop keeps the specifics of its mixture close to its chest). That tender meat is layered onto a pillowy loaf of crunchy white bread and topped with giardiniera that’s heavy on peppers, carrots, and cauliflower. Where the restaurant deviates from tradition is in its additional menu items. There’s a Korean bulgogi steak bowl, featuring marinated ribeye sliced into ribbons over a bowl of white rice. Or try an order of the very large wings, tossed with barbecue, Buffalo, or Sassy Seoul sauce.

Order: The Italian beef with your choice of mild or spicy giardiniera. The beef at Budacki’s is ideal for people who prefer not to have their mouth set aflame with spice. The flavors are milder than most beef stands around the city and sammies are sold dipped unless otherwise requested. Look like an insider by adding the Korean bulgogi steak bowl to your order.


Kasama

1001 N Winchester Ave, Chicago

The modern Filipino restaurant Kasama consistently has a line out the door, and I’m sure a recent James Beard Award will only add to its popularity. The restaurant attracts diners because of its ability to meld the nuanced culinary traditions of the Philippines and the Midwest, and translate it all into a medley of dishes unique to husband-wife owners Tim Flores and Genie Kwon.

Flores grew up in the Chicago suburb of Cicero (home to Scatchell’s and a short drive from Johnnie’s, Buona Beef, and Portillo’s) and clearly brought that inspiration to Kasama. Italian beef is not what the restaurant is known for, but that’s only because the tasting menu and pastries (like ube and coconut-filled brioche buns) have consistently stolen the spotlight. The Italian beef here is no less special, but it is easy to miss with an untrained eye.

The sandwich at Kasama is a “combo” which usually means an Italian sausage buried under several sheets of thinly sliced Italian beef. Kasama uses a pork shoulder instead of sirloin beef, and roasts it in an adobo jus. The pork is shaved down and added back to the juices, and served on a fluffy, pliable bun along with a sweet and spicy housemade longanisa sausage. This “wet” sandwich is dipped back in the adobo gravy and topped off with giardiniera. The cooks at Kasama pack the Italian beef (or, in this case, Italian pork) with hot peppers, making it not only one of the newer versions in this city, but also one of the spiciest options in town.

Order: The combo with giardiniera. Make no substitutions. It doesn’t come with the traditional fries; instead, each sandwich is served alongside salty housemade potato chips.

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